Description

The North Face route to climb Mt Kenya’s highest peak Batian is lessor known, and whilst it is longer with 23 pitches in total, it is also less technical than the standard route. It is best climbed in the late winter months of July to October. Taking four days to hike up to base camp you then have two days of rope work to get to the top. Whilst the grades of the climbing section are not extreme, you will need a good level of climbing stamina to complete the route. The weather conditions can also be variable in the extreme providing an added challenge.

Highlights

• Summit Africa’s second highest peak , Batian at 5199m
• Conquer one of Africa’s most technical high altitude climbs
• Enjoy spectacular scenery on Mt Kenya’s slopes

Sample Itinerary

Day 1: Depart from Nairobi at 08h00 and drive approximately four hours to Nanyuki. Arriving at approximately midday you proceed to the Sirimon gate at Mt Kenya National Park where you’ll enjoy a picnic lunch. Taking some time to check your gear after lunch you start out on the trek. The day’s hike takes you up the track for 10kms, forking left at the junction you reach Old Moses camp which is situated at 3,300m. The ascent from Sirimon gate up to Old Moses camp is 690m.

Day 2: After breakfast depart from Old Moses Camp, following the track to the fork where the track becomes a single path. Turning south you’ll round the head of a large valley and cross several small streams to reach the crest of the ridge between the Otulili and Likii North Valleys. The overnight stop is at Liki North hut which is at an altitude of 3,993m.

Day 3: On today’s trek the path takes you up the west side of the Valley, over the ridge and down into the Mackinders Valley. Here you meet up again with one of the main route tracks. From there you follow the trail up to Shipton camp where you’ll stay overnight. Altitude is 4,250m.

Day 4: A more leisurely breakfast you have a two hour hike to Kami hut 4,600m. This is the base camp for the technical ascent up the north face.

Day 5: Wake up at 05h00 and have tea and biscuits, prepare to leave at 05h30 and hike to the base of North Face. The path is rocky and covers sections of frozen scree and the walk usually takes 45 minutes to an hour. You should be able to start the climbing section by 07h00. Using crampons and ice axes the day’s climb covers ten 50m pitches ranging in difficulty from a grade III scramble to grade VI + climbs. The route takes you up to the camp at Firmin Tower.

Day 6: From Firmin Tower there are two route options: One takes you up a small grade V gully and second goes around the tower. This route is easier but somewhat longer. Having acended the tower the route brings you to the knife edge. Here you climb a Grade IV+ pitch and then another Grade IV pitch before you come to a traverse that leads you to the Shiptons notch. At the Shiptons notch rocks are quite lose and you’ll need to watch your footing. Once completing Shiptons notch the route takes you up to Batian at 5,199m. Summiting around midday, you then abseil down to the bottom and from there hike down to Shipton camp. It’s a long but rewarding day of climbing.

Day 7: After breakfast set out for the day’s trek. The path takes you up Simba col and then down through the Georges Valley to the Meru Mount Kenya Bandas above Chogoria. The hike takes approximately seven hours.

Day 8: The last day’s hike takes you down through the bamboo and indigenous forest to reach Bairunyi. There you meet up with your transport which will take you back to Nairobi.